The most beautiful railway line in Taiwan
Ask Taiwanese travellers about their favourite train ride and most will name the line between Hualien and Taitung. The track threads the Huadong Valley, also known as the East Rift Valley, a long green corridor squeezed between the Central Mountain Range on one side and the Coastal Mountains on the other. Outside the window, rice paddies shift colour with the seasons, from mirror-like flooded fields in spring to golden waves before harvest. This is the part of Taiwan that locals mean when they talk about slow living: the east is the least populated region of the island and, many would argue, its most authentic.
Qingshui Cliffs: where mountains meet the Pacific
North of Hualien, the Qingshui Cliffs are among the most dramatic sights in the country. Walls of marble and gneiss drop several hundred metres almost vertically into the Pacific, and the water below shades from turquoise to deep sapphire. The classic panorama is from the viewpoint along the Su-Hua Highway; come in the morning for the best light and fewer tour buses. It is one of those places where photographs consistently fail to convey the scale.
Chishang and the rice fields of the valley
The small town of Chishang grows some of the most prized rice in Taiwan, and its landscape became famous thanks to an airline commercial: Brown Boulevard, a narrow lane running straight through the paddies with no power lines in sight, where actor Takeshi Kaneshiro sipped tea under a solitary tree. That tree is now a pilgrimage site, and the proper way to explore is the local way: rent a bicycle and glide for an hour or two between the fields, mountains rising on both horizons. Nearby Luye hosts the Taiwan International Balloon Festival every summer, roughly from June to August, when dozens of hot air balloons drift over the tea plantations of the Luye Highland.
Hot springs, arches and surf villages
The southern half of the coast rewards unhurried exploration:
- Zhiben, just outside Taitung, is one of Taiwan's classic hot spring resorts, ideal for soaking tired legs after days of cycling and hiking.
- Sanxiantai is a rocky islet connected to the mainland by a striking footbridge of eight arches. It is one of the first places in Taiwan to catch the sunrise, and photographers arrive in the dark to watch the sky ignite behind the bridge.
- Dulan is a laid-back surf and art village, where an old sugar factory now hosts studios, weekend markets and live music. The area is a heartland of the Amis, the largest of Taiwan's indigenous peoples, and their traditions and festivals remain part of daily life.
- Taitung Forest Park offers easy bike paths through coastal woodland and lakes, a gentle finale before the train back.
The beaches here are wild and often black-sanded, facing the open Pacific. They are beautiful for walks, but currents are strong; swim with caution and only where locals do.
Practical tips for the east coast
Trains on the TRA line between Hualien and Taitung sell out quickly, especially the fast Puyuma and Taroko services, so book seats as soon as reservations open. For the valley itself, a scooter or rental car is the best tool: distances between villages are short, roads are quiet, and the freedom to stop at any viewpoint is what this region is about. Plan three to four days for the Hualien to Taitung stretch to enjoy it without rushing. The coast is a year-round destination, mild even in winter, though the typhoon season from July to September can disrupt plans, so keep an eye on forecasts. If western Taiwan is the island's busy showcase, the east is its deep breath: come for the scenery, stay for the pace.